You type "best retro gaming console" and you're hit with dozens of models with mile-long names, every one of them "the best". Take a breath: there's no single best console, only the best console for you. Three questions are enough to make it stand out — where you play, what you play, and how much you want to spend.
Start with the format, not the spec sheet
It's the opposite of the usual reflex, and it's the right one. Before the processor or the gigabytes, ask yourself where the console will live.
A pocket console, vertical like a Game Boy, slips into a jacket and comes out on the train without a second thought — that's the spirit of the R36S 3.5″. A controller format, horizontal, sits better in the hands for couch evenings — see the R36H. A big screen like the R50S 5.1″ makes 3D games far more legible. And if the plan is to play with others in front of the TV, you don't want a handheld at all, but one of our HDMI plug-in sticks and cabinets.
One detail almost nobody checks, yet it ruins plenty of purchases: the analog sticks. For 2D, the D-pad is enough. But the day you want to fire up Mario 64 or God of War on PSP, without real sticks it's simply unplayable.
A quick screen-size guide: under 3.5″ you gain compactness but fine games tire the eyes faster; around 4 to 5″ is the versatile sweet spot; beyond that, readability rules but the device leaves your pocket. A clamshell, meanwhile, protects the screen when you carry it without a case. The right reflex: picture a typical day — commute, lunch break, couch — before you even look at a spec sheet.
How far back do you want to go?
Power does one job only: it sets which vintage consoles you can run. The further back you go, the more you need.
| Tier | What it can run | Who it's for |
|---|---|---|
| Entry-level | NES, Super Nintendo, Game Boy, GBA, Mega Drive | Starting out, gifting, 2D |
| Mid-range | Plus the PS1 and most N64 games | The best all-round compromise |
| Premium | Plus PSP, Dreamcast, sometimes PS2 and GameCube | Demanding players |
The real trap is overpaying. If your nostalgia stops at Pokémon, Sonic and Zelda, an entry-level model runs them effortlessly — no need to aim high. Conversely, if you dream of smooth PS1 or PSP, don't go too low. We break down each tier in our emulation guide.
In detail, the real "steps" are well known. 8/16-bit and the Game Boy Advance never cause trouble. The PS1 runs from mid-range up. The Nintendo 64 stays finicky: because of its technical quirks, some games run poorly even on decent hardware. The PSP needs power and storage (its games are large), and the Dreamcast and Saturn are the hungriest before the PS2. Knowing these steps spares you the "it should have worked" disappointment.
Screen, battery, system: what gives a good console away
At the same price, three details separate good hardware from disappointing kit. The screen first: a bright IPS panel and the original 4:3 ratio change everything, where a dull screen crushes the colours. Battery life next, judged on real use rather than the figure on the box — a PSP game drains the battery twice as fast as a Game Boy one. The system last: ArkOS, muOS or OnionOS launch your games in two buttons, instant save states included and the emulator already tuned. You never open a single technical file.
Two details still shape the final result. Scaling first — how the original image is enlarged: a good "integer scaling" setting keeps pixels sharp rather than blurry. Hotkeys next (button combos to save, load or quit on the fly) that make emulation as smooth as a real console. And do the battery maths in reverse: a console rated "6 hours" on Game Boy will often last 3 to 4 hours on PS1. The gap between systems (ArkOS, muOS, OnionOS) actually comes down to these finishing touches — box-art handling, themes, updates — more than raw power.
The right model for your profile
In practice, three cases come up again and again:
- You're starting out or gifting — a ready-to-play entry-level model does the job perfectly. Pick from our affordable retro gaming consoles, which we review in our guide to cheap models.
- You want the best compromise — a mid-range that handles the PS1, like the R36 Ultra 4″ WiFi.
- You're the demanding type — a premium big-screen model that reaches the PSP, even the PS2, like the H55 5.5″ or the M28 7.1″.
- The living-room or family player: if the plan is mostly to play two-up in front of the TV, look at our HDMI plug-in sticks and cabinets, and keep a wireless controller on hand.
Don't want to decide alone? Our six-question quiz hands you a suitable model in a minute, or follow the step-by-step method in which retro gaming console to choose.
The mistakes that cost you
Three errors show up in every disappointed review. Paying for power you'll never use. Skipping the analog sticks when you meant to play in 3D. And being hypnotised by a flashy "40,000 games!" — a clean, well-sorted library beats an inflated counter where half the titles crash. Everything arrives plug & play with us — preloaded SD card, emulator in place — but the smart purchase is decided beforehand, on those three points.
How do you spot them before paying? For battery life, trust real-world feedback over the figure on the box. For the screen, look for the "IPS" label in black and white: its absence is rarely an accident. And for the library, a clearly named system (ArkOS, muOS, OnionOS, Knulli) signals a well-organised card rather than an unstable jumble.
FAQ — Best retro gaming console
Where do I start as a beginner?
An entry-level model in pocket or controller format: it runs every 8/16-bit classic, costs the price of a new game and works with no setup at all.
Do the PS1 and Nintendo 64 really run?
Yes, from mid-range up. Entry-level focuses on 2D; the PS1 needs a notch more power, and the N64 also calls for good analog sticks.
IPS or OLED?
A good IPS is plenty for 2D and costs less. OLED elevates blacks and very colourful games, but it's a luxury, not a necessity.
How long does the battery last?
Generally four to ten hours, depending on capacity and the systems emulated. The more demanding the game (PSP, Dreamcast), the faster it drains.
Do I need to be tech-savvy?
No. Everything is preinstalled and pretuned. If you can switch on a console, you can use it.
Is it legal?
Owning a console and an emulator is perfectly legal in France. We stay transparent and never promise anything we can't back up.
What SD card size should I choose?
For 8/16-bit and the PS1, 64 GB is plenty. If you're after the PSP or Dreamcast, whose games are large, a 128 GB card or more makes real sense.
Can I connect a controller and play two-up?
On models with Bluetooth or a compatible USB port, yes: a wireless controller adds comfort, especially when you hook the console up to the TV.
Can I play online?
These consoles are built for solo and local play. A few WiFi models mainly let you add games and fetch box art — not play online like a modern console.
Further reading: we answer the number-one concern with is a retro gaming console legal?, and we explain what an emulator really is.
